A long low bridge over a calm river in Kochi Prefecture, Japan

Kochi Packing List for Women: The Empty Side of Shikoku

A long low bridge over a calm river in Kochi Prefecture, Japan

Kochi is the southern prefecture of Shikoku, facing the Pacific, cut off from the rest of the island by a mountain range, and it is the emptiest and wettest part of Japan's main four islands. Roughly 84 percent of it is forest. The Shimanto river is often called the last clear stream in Japan because it has no major dam on its main course, and it is crossed by chinkabashi, low bridges built without railings so that floodwater passes over them rather than sweeping them away.

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This is not Kochi in Kerala, which is a different country entirely and a frequent booking mix up. Japanese Kochi has a castle that is one of only twelve originals, a Sunday market that has run for three hundred years, and it is where sixteen of the eighty eight temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage sit, on the longest and hardest stretch of the route. Pack for rain, seriously.

What Makes Kochi Different to Pack For

The rain is the defining fact

Kochi is among the wettest prefectures in Japan, with some mountain areas recording over 3,000 millimetres a year. The rainy season in June and July is heavy, and Kochi takes the direct hit from Pacific typhoons between August and October more than anywhere else in Japan.

A genuinely waterproof packable rain jacket rather than a showerproof one, and quick drying clothes throughout. A merino wool base layer for women is the right choice under it, because it still insulates when damp, which cotton does not.

Warm, humid and subtropical

Summer runs 24°C to 32°C with high humidity. Winter is mild at 4°C to 13°C and snow is rare on the coast. Kochi gets more sunshine hours than most of Japan between the rain events, which is why the local character is reputed to be more open and more fond of drinking than the Japanese average.

Distances, and thin public transport

The prefecture is long and mountainous, the Shimanto is two hours from the city, and Cape Ashizuri further still. Trains are limited and buses infrequent. Most visitors hire a car.

Recommended Tours and Experiences

A JR Shikoku train at the platform at Kochi Station, Japan

The Kochi Packing List

Footwear

Something waterproof, and a spare pair. Wet feet are the standard Kochi experience and a second pair to rotate into is worth the bag space. Waterproof hiking shoes cover the castle, the riverbanks and the pilgrimage paths equally, and they come off easily enough for temples.

Shoes off at the castle, at temples and at many ryokan, so nothing tightly laced if you can avoid it.

Clothing

Quick drying, layered, and more of it than for a drier destination because things will not dry overnight in June. Modest and neat as anywhere in Japan, and covered shoulders and knees at the temples.

If you are walking any of the pilgrimage, the white hakui jacket, the sedge hat and the staff are bought locally at temple shops and are worn by walkers regardless of belief.

For the river

Something you can get wet in, and water shoes. Canoeing the Shimanto is the main activity and the operators provide the rest. A dry bag for a phone, since the chinkabashi bridges have no railings and people drop things.

For typhoon season

Flexibility more than equipment. Trains and flights stop, roads close, and rivers rise very fast. Build slack into an itinerary between August and October and take warnings seriously.

Practical

Cash, since rural Shikoku is less card friendly than the cities. A hire car for anything outside Kochi city. Mosquito repellent in summer.

What to Wear at Key Sites

Kochi Castle

One of the twelve surviving original keeps, and uniquely the only one where both the keep and the palace at its base survive together. Built by Yamauchi Kazutoyo from 1601.

Practically: shoes off, steep original wooden stairs, and the same physical demands as any original keep. The palace at the base is flat and accessible. The grounds are pleasant in rain, which is just as well.

The Sunday market

Running since 1690, it stretches for about a kilometre along Otesuji street from the castle, with several hundred stalls of produce, plants, knives and food. It is one of the best markets in Japan and it happens every Sunday except at new year and during the Yosakoi festival.

Practically: outdoors, so weather dependent. Cash. Starts early and winds down by early afternoon.

A dual mode vehicle parked among trees at Toyo, Kochi Prefecture, Japan

Katsurahama and Cape Ashizuri

Katsurahama is the beach outside the city with a statue of Sakamoto Ryoma, the Kochi samurai who helped broker the alliance that brought down the shogunate and was assassinated at thirty three. Cape Ashizuri is the southern tip of Shikoku, with a lighthouse and cliffs.

Practically: swimming at Katsurahama is prohibited because of currents, and the sign is there for a reason. Ashizuri is exposed, windy and a long drive.

The Shimanto river

Canoeing, cycling the riverside road, and the chinkabashi, the submersible bridges without railings, which you can walk and drive across.

Practically: the bridges are narrow and genuinely unnerving, with no barrier between you and the water. Do not use them when the river is high. The valley is two hours from the city and the day is mostly the driving.

The pilgrimage temples

Sixteen of the eighty eight are in Kochi, on the stretch pilgrims call the place of ascetic training, because the distances between them are the longest on the circuit.

Practically: covered shoulders and knees, shoes off in the halls, and a quiet manner. Walkers doing the full route are on a two month journey and deserve the road.

What Not to Bring

Leave a showerproof jacket in place of a waterproof one. Leave cotton, which will not dry. Leave one pair of shoes.

Leave a rigid itinerary in typhoon season. Leave any intention of swimming at Katsurahama. Leave the assumption that Shikoku has the transport density of Honshu, because it does not.

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Essential Resources for Women in Kochi

Emergency numbers in Japan: police 110, ambulance and fire 119. Both take English with a delay while an interpreter is connected. The Japan Visitor Hotline is +81 50 3816 2787 and operates 24 hours in English, Chinese and Korean. Typhoon, flood and landslide warnings arrive automatically on Japanese phone networks and on municipal loudspeakers.

Tourist support: Japan has no separate tourist police, but koban, the neighbourhood police boxes, are the normal first stop for a lost item or a problem. A stolen passport needs a police report before the consulate can act.

US Embassy and consulate: the embassy is in Tokyo at 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato ku, telephone +81 3 3224 5000, at jp.usembassy.gov. The nearest consulate is the US Consulate General Osaka Kobe, which is several hours away across the Seto bridges or a short flight. Enrol in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program at step.state.gov before you travel.

Main hospital or clinic: Kochi Health Sciences Center in Kochi city is the prefectural hospital with an emergency department. Rural Kochi is thinly served and mountain and coastal areas are a long way from care. English is limited, so carry insurance details in writing. Japan bills treatment in full to visitors, so travel insurance is essential.

Official health authority: the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare at mhlw.go.jp.

US State Department travel advisory for Japan: current advisory level and detail. Read it directly rather than relying on this page.

UK FCDO travel advice for Japan: entry requirements, safety and health guidance.

Official tourism authority: the Japan National Tourism Organization at japan.travel, with the Kochi prefecture visitor site at visitkochijapan.com for the Sunday market, Shimanto operators and the Yosakoi festival in August.

Solo women safety assessment: Kochi is very safe for a woman travelling alone, as rural Japan generally is, and the pilgrimage culture adds something distinctive: Shikoku has a long tradition of osettai, giving food, drink or help to pilgrims, and walkers are looked after in a way that is genuinely unusual. Crime against visitors is very rare, theft is uncommon, and eating alone is standard, though note that Kochi has a strong drinking culture and the izakaya scene in the Obiyamachi area is livelier and louder than in most Japanese cities, which is a matter of atmosphere rather than threat. Harassment is rare. The real risks here are water and weather, and they are more serious than in most of Japan. Kochi takes the brunt of Pacific typhoons: rivers rise extremely fast, landslides close mountain roads, and the chinkabashi bridges are designed to be submerged, which tells you what the Shimanto does in heavy rain. Never cross one when the water is high or rising, and treat evacuation advisories as instructions. Swimming is restricted at Katsurahama because of the currents, and the Pacific coast generally has strong rips and few lifeguards. If you are driving, the mountain roads are narrow, often single track with passing places, and visibility in heavy rain is poor. If you are walking any pilgrimage stretch, the Kochi section has the longest gaps between temples and settlements on the whole circuit, so carry water and food and tell your accommodation your plan.

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Reading On

Kochi is the least visited corner of Japan's four main islands and the one that still feels genuinely rural. The Japan travel guide for women is the parent for the whole country and covers the regions, the seasons and the rail passes, and the Japan packing list for women covers a multi region trip. Across the Seto bridges, the Osaka travel guide for women and the Kobe packing list for women are the nearest big cities, the Hiroshima travel guide for women and Miyajima packing list for women sit across the inland sea, and the Koyasan packing list for women covers the other great pilgrimage centre, which is where the Shikoku route traditionally ends. South, the Kagoshima packing list for women and Beppu packing list for women cover Kyushu. Not to be confused with the Kochi packing list for women in Kerala, which is a different place with the same name. The travel packing guide for women is the parent for all destinations. For why merino still insulates when damp, which matters more here than almost anywhere, the best merino wool base layers for women explains the fibre, and the Roman Trail collection is where the tops themselves live.

If the outer journey is calling you, the inner one usually is too. Explore SoulMap at romantrail.com/blogs/soulmap.

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Before You Pack Your Bag

The outer journey is worth preparing for. But the inner one is worth paying attention to.

SoulMap is a space for the questions that travel tends to surface. What you are really looking for. What you are ready to leave behind. What the next chapter actually looks like.

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