
Photograph: Guryongpo, Pohang by Mobius6, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Pohang is the largest city in South Korea's North Gyeongsang province, an industrial port on the East Sea about 110 kilometres north of Busan, and the home of the steel company POSCO. Packing for it means packing for a coast with cold winters and hot, wet summers, for long stairways and windy headlands, and for a typhoon season that runs into autumn.
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The photograph above was taken at the entrance to the old Japanese era street in Guryongpo, a town that is part of Pohang: a paved path leading to a long stone stairway up a hillside, clipped pine trees on either side, older houses with dark and teal roofs at the left, a tall brown pillar with Korean lettering at the right, bare winter trees and a clear blue sky, with two people in winter coats walking towards the steps. What the frame cannot show is most of Pohang. There is no harbour or sea in it, nothing of the houses' interiors or the history museum inside one of them, no city centre, no steelworks, no fish market, no beach and nothing of Homigot, the cape where Wikipedia says thousands gather for the first sunrise of the New Year.
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What Is Here
Pohang grew from a fishing village into a steel city. The English Wikipedia says it was still a small fishing village at the start of the twentieth century, that a modern harbour built in 1930 began its growth, and that by the 1960s it was a coastal city of about 50,000 people. Then came POSCO, the Pohang Steel Company, which Wikipedia describes as one of the largest steel producers in the world. Wikivoyage adds that the plant lights up in many colours at night. The city also has a war history: Wikipedia records that UN forces landed unopposed at Pohang on 18 July 1950, in the first large scale amphibious operation since the Second World War.
Wikipedia names gwamegi, a partially dried fish, as a specialty of Guryongpo and of Pohang, and says the city holds a Gwamegi Festival every November. Wikivoyage describes mori noodles as a Guryongpo dish that began as spicy noodles eaten by fishermen, and calls Jukdo Market the largest traditional market in Pohang; Wikipedia describes it as a fish market where fresh seafood is sold.
Guryongpo and Its Old Street
Guryongpo is a town in Pohang's Nam-gu district. Its old street, now called the Guryongpo Modern Culture and History Street, is the place in our photograph. According to the Korean Wikipedia, Japanese people settled here after a trade agreement between Korea and Japan, and the few Japanese style houses that survived were tidied up by Pohang City and turned into a tourist site. The house of a former resident, Hashimoto Zenkichi, is used as a modern history museum, restaurants and teahouses of the period are preserved, and a primary school and a postbox have been recreated as they once looked.
The same source gives the street's later history plainly. After liberation in 1945 the houses were classed as enemy property, most were lost or reduced to their foundations during the Korean War, and the survivors were for years hidden behind a fuel store for fishing boats. In 2010 the city took over ownership, moved the fuel store and opened the street to visitors. It has also been a filming location for two Korean television dramas, Eyes of Dawn in 1991 and When the Camellia Blooms in 2019. Our advice is to read the street as a piece of colonial history rather than only a backdrop for photographs.
Wikivoyage says city bus 200 runs from the intercity bus terminal to Guryongpo, and describes Guryongpo Beach as small, with clear water that attracts snorkellers and fishermen.
Homigot and the Sunrise
Homigot means tiger's tail cape. Wikipedia describes it as one of the easternmost points on the Korean peninsula, where thousands gather every year to greet the first sunrise of the New Year, and says it is home to the Hands of Harmony sculpture and the Homigot Lighthouse. Wikivoyage describes the sculpture as two large bronze hands, one rising from the water in a small cove and the other from dry land, and warns that the beaches there are too rocky for swimming and that sunrise can turn into a crowded shoving match over the rocks. Our advice for a winter sunrise is to dress as if you will stand still in a cold sea wind for an hour.
When to Go
The climate chart Wikivoyage reproduces from the Korea Meteorological Administration shows January averaging a high of about 7C and a low of about minus 1.5C, and August a high of about 29.5C, with July, August and September the wettest months. So winter is cold on this coast and summer is hot and wet.
The FCDO adds the hazards. The summer rainy season usually brings heavy rain across the country in June and July, with landslides possible in hilly areas, and the typhoon season normally runs from June to November. It tells travellers to monitor storms with the Korea Meteorological Administration, or to call 131 in Korea for a forecast in English. It also says air pollution, including yellow dust, is common especially in spring. And Pohang has a recent reminder of the earthquake risk: Wikipedia records that a magnitude 5.4 earthquake struck Heunghae, in Pohang, on 15 November 2017, injuring at least 82 people. The FCDO says strong earthquakes in South Korea are unusual but do happen, and that the government publishes updates in Korean and English on its Natural Disaster Safety Portal.
Getting There
Wikivoyage says trains run to Pohang from Daegu in about an hour and a half, from Busan in two to three hours, and from Seoul, but that the station is in Heunghae-eup, far from the city centre, so plan a bus or taxi onward. The city's airport has domestic flights only. Wikivoyage says intercity buses run to almost every major city in South Korea, and local buses reach Guryongpo.
The FCDO notes that taxi drivers tend to speak little or no English and suggests having your destination written in Korean. If you are stuck, it points to the Korea Tourism Organisation's travel hotline, 1330, which offers interpretation including three way calls between 7am and midnight.
Is Pohang Safe for Women Travelers
The FCDO does not advise against travel to any part of South Korea, read on 11 November 2026, and Pohang is not named in its advice. It says there is no recent history of terrorism, though attacks cannot be ruled out, and that tension on the Korean peninsula can change with little notice. Civil emergency exercises happen from time to time, marked by sirens, when all vehicles must stop; you do not need to take part, but follow officials' instructions. The government's Emergency Ready App explains the alerts that would be pushed to your phone.
For women specifically, the FCDO says crime against foreigners is rare, mostly theft, but that there have been assaults, including sexual assault, particularly around bars and nightlife areas. It advises care when travelling alone at night and using only legitimate taxis or public transport. Wikivoyage says several bars in the downtown area cater to a foreign crowd; the same advice applies there.
A few laws matter. It is illegal for foreigners to take part in political activities, including demonstrations. Drug laws are strict, even for small amounts of marijuana, and the FCDO says British nationals have been detained solely on the basis of drug tests. You are legally required to carry identification, though you will rarely be asked for it.
The Pohang Packing List
Our merino base layers are 100% Australian merino at 17.5 micron, and a long sleeve merino wool base layer for women is the layer to build on here: under a coat on a winter sunrise at Homigot, on its own on a mild spring day, and as one top that stays fresh between trains.
For Winter and the Sea Wind
A Columbia Fast Trek II fleece over the base layer handles most winter days, and a Smartwool merino beanie is worth packing for any dawn on the cape. In the rainy and typhoon months, a Marmot PreCip Eco rain jacket keeps the wind and rain off without much weight.
For Summer
Summer is hot, so a wide brim sun hat helps on the coast. The FCDO lists malaria, insect and tick bites and tick borne encephalitis among the health risks in South Korea, so carry a DEET insect repellent for walks in grass and woodland. Our affiliate register carries no sunscreen and no eyewear, so bring your own, and in spring a face mask for yellow dust days.
For Your Feet
The photograph shows what Guryongpo asks of you: a long flight of stone steps. Salomon hiking shoes with real grip suit the stairs and the rocks at Homigot. That is our sixth affiliate link and our limit, so glove liners for winter go unlinked. The FCDO says medication for personal use should be kept in carry on baggage with an English language prescription.
Recommended Tours and Experiences
Essential Resources for Women in Pohang
Emergency numbers: ambulance and fire 119, police 112, according to the FCDO's getting help page. The Korea Tourism Organisation's travel hotline is 1330, with interpretation from 7am to midnight, and the FCDO lists the Danuri Call Centre, 1577 1366, as available around the clock.
Medical care: the FCDO says medical care in South Korea is usually of a good standard but can be expensive, and staff may not speak English. One point is worth knowing in advance: a hospital may ask you to bring a guardian, a bohoja, to help with basic care such as washing and trips to the bathroom. Paid caregivers can be found, but they generally do not speak English, so a woman travelling alone should know this before she needs it. The FCDO keeps a list of medical providers in South Korea.
US State Department travel advisory: the South Korea advisory. Read the current level there directly rather than relying on a figure printed in any guide.
UK FCDO travel advice: gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/south-korea, and read the safety and security page rather than only the landing page, because that is where the substance sits.
Official health authority: the Korea Disease Control and Prevention Agency.
US Embassy: the United States Embassy in Seoul, is in Seoul.
Official tourism authority: the Korea Tourism Organization, runs the 1330 travel hotline the FCDO points visitors to.
Solo women safety assessment: South Korea has no area the FCDO advises against and it describes crime against foreigners as rare. The risks we would plan around in Pohang are assault around bars and nightlife, the language barrier with taxis and in hospital, where a guardian may be expected, and the weather: typhoons, summer downpours and cold sea wind in winter. Use legitimate taxis, save 1330 and the Danuri number in your phone, and check the forecast before a coastal day. Ambulance 119, police 112.
Takeaways
Our suggestion is to come to Pohang for the coast: the old street at Guryongpo, the hands at Homigot, and the fish at Jukdo Market. Pack warm layers and a hat for winter dawns, rain gear and repellent for summer, and grippy shoes for the stairs. Read the old street as history, and keep the typhoon season in mind from June to November.
Reading On
South of Pohang, the Gyeongju packing list covers the neighbouring city, and the Busan packing list and the Daegu packing list cover two of the cities with trains to Pohang. Elsewhere in the south east, read the Ulsan packing list and the Andong packing list, and for the capital the Seoul packing list. The South Korea packing list and the South Korea travel guide for women cover the whole country. For why one wool layer works from a freezing sunrise to a humid summer afternoon, read the guide to merino wool base layers for women, and every destination we cover is indexed at the travel packing guide for women. The base layers themselves are in the Roman Trail collection.
If the outer journey is calling you, the inner one usually is too. Explore SoulMap at romantrail.com/blogs/soulmap.